Meryl Feinstein: Honeymoon Ravioli with Wonton Wrappers
James Beard Award-winning author, pasta aficionado, and founder of Pasta Social Club Meryl Feinstein shares the honeymoon ravioli that turned pasta-making into a career.
Meryl Feinstein is the Washington, D.C.-based, James Beard Award-winning cookbook author of Pasta Every Day: Make It, Shape It, Sauce It, Eat It. Meryl founded Pasta Social Club, a platform that brings people together through the dual love of food and learning. In addition to cooking and teaching pasta-making workshops, she writes for publications including Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and Food52.
I’m sharing a modified version of her Honeymoon Ravioli, with a sneaky (easier) method of using wonton wrappers instead of handmade pasta. Pasta-making instructions for more ambitious chefs can be found here (scroll down to “Fill and assemble the ravioli”), and follow Meryl’s substack.
I was curious to go deep with Meryl about the significance of the recipe that launched her career and marriage.
Hi Meryl. I love the Honeymoon Ravioli recipe and the associated story of your experience in Italy. What drew you to celebrate your union there?
I've always been fascinated by Italy. Before working in the food industry, I studied art history, particularly Italian Renaissance art, so that connection was for a while. There's just something so inexplicably magical about that place: Every region is different, from the beaches of the south to the snowy mountains of the north, and still, each one takes your breath away. I could spend a lifetime exploring Italy and never experience it all. Although my husband and I had both traveled to Italy before our honeymoon, we knew we wanted to celebrate our wedding by visiting parts of the country we hadn't seen before (particularly the Amalfi Coast and Emilia-Romagna). It was familiar enough to be relaxing, but still new and exciting.
I love this memory of your first meal on the trip, "we unloaded our luggage under the speckled shadows of fragrant orange trees. Lunch was served overlooking the Bay of Naples, its glittering waves nodding toward the island of Capri." Can you describe the feeling of being there and how that moment impacted the taste of the meal or vice versa?
I remember being exhausted when we approached our hotel in Sorrento, when we saw that orange grove, all of the weariness seemed to evaporate. It felt like we stepped into a dream (maybe it was the tiredness after all), and we could finally breathe. I'm sure those feelings of relief and wonder made the food taste better than it was, but I also remember being so taken by how the Italians could make such simple food taste exceptional.
I ordered a cappuccino instead of wine, alongside the ravioli, which I now know is a huge faux pas in Italy--but I was in desperate need of caffeine and, thankfully, our server took pity and didn't make fun of us.
You headed north to Modena and decided to take a pasta-making class. Was that planned before the trip?
Yes, we worked with a wonderful travel agent who knew we were interested in everything food-related and she organized it for us. But it's funny you ask that, because the morning we were scheduled to go to the class (it was part of a tour of an acetaia, or traditional balsamic vinegar producer), we were considering skipping or rescheduling it in favor of a few extra hours of sleep. Thankfully we didn't; I can't imagine what life would be like now if we hadn't gone!
You said that the class changed your life forever. What happened there? Was it a spark moment? What were the thoughts that popped into your head? Have you ever made pasta before? Was this your first cooking class?
What I loved most about making pasta during that class was how sculptural it was--I've always loved working with my hands, having been a (very mediocre) studio artist for half of my life, and I felt like making pasta was essentially making art you could eat. My two favorite things!
It wasn't my first time making pasta from scratch, nor my first pasta class, but it was by far the most fun and successful of those attempts. I was frustrated the first time I tried making pasta. It was a lot of work, it didn't turn out particularly well, and I was still hungry after I ate it. But my experience in Modena showed me it didn't have to be that way--with a little guidance, anyone can make great fresh pasta at home.
How did you hone your skills and craft when you got home?
I had enrolled in culinary school before our honeymoon, and classes started the week after we returned. So I was immediately thrown into a professional kitchen environment. Of course, in culinary school, we only covered pasta for a couple of days, so I tinkered with it here and there outside of the classroom. After classes concluded, I did an internship working the pastry line at Lilia in Brooklyn (no pasta, but I continued to hone my skills on my days off, and started the Pasta Social Club Instagram account at that time), and then moved over to pasta production at their sister restaurant, Misi. We made ten types of fresh pasta every day at Misi, and that's where I learned how to make a lot of pasta very quickly. Otherwise, I'm mostly self-taught, taking inspiration from other pasta makers and Italian cooks.
What inspires you to share your passion with others?
I find so much comfort and joy in making pasta, whether by myself when I can zone out and relax, or alongside friends and family when it's a vehicle for connection. I think we're all craving those feelings-of solace, of belonging-if I can help others find that through making pasta, then I've accomplished my goal. Selfishly, I've struggled to make new friends as an adult, and my events with Pasta Social Club are a great way to meet new people, too.
What does it feel like to share this beloved recipe outside of your home and kitchen?
Ravioli is one of the world's most beloved kinds of pasta, and I hope this recipe will inspire someone to give it a try! Stuffed pasta looks intimidating, but the technique is actually quite simple--and, worst-case scenario, they look a little wonky but still taste delicious. I'm excited to share this recipe because it's perfect for the warmer months and transports me right back to Sorrento and the trip where it all began!
Recipe below…
Honeymoon Ravioli
Serves 4 to 6
Filling
225 grams (8 ounces) fresh mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes
150 grams (5¼ ounces) grated Caciotta or Monterey Jack cheese
45 grams (1½ ounces) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Fresh marjoram leaves to taste*
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg and 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten together
Pasta
Wanton or dumpling wrappers
Sauce
340 grams (12 ounces) small, sweet tomatoes like cherry or Campari
Kosher salt
85 grams (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter or 80 ml (⅓ cup) high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 garlic cloves, minced
340 grams (12 ounces) tomato purée (passata) or canned peeled whole or crushed tomatoes
2 large sprigs fresh basil, plus torn or chopped basil for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or other hard-grating cheese, for serving (optional)
*Marjoram is an herb you’ll come across often in Italian cooking. It’s similar to oregano, aromatic with hints of citrus and pine, and, like oregano, a little can go a long way. If you can’t find it, use fresh (not dried) oregano or, in a pinch, sage.
Filling Instructions:
Add the cheeses and a few marjoram leaves to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding more marjoram if you’d like. Transfer to a mixing bowl and fold in the egg, egg yolk, and another pinch of salt.
The texture of this filling is almost doughlike—not to worry, the cheeses will melt together when cooked. Keep the filling in the bowl or transfer it to a piping bag; if chilling overnight, allow the filling to soften at room temperature for 30 minutes before use.
Pasta Instructions:
If using wonton wrappers, brush the edges of one piece with egg wash or water. Add a small dollop of filling, about 1 to 2 teaspoons, to the center, then layer another wrapper. Press firmly to seal, removing as much excess air around the filling as possible as you do so. If you’d like, seal the edges once more with the tines of a fork.
Transfer the ravioli to a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and arrange in a single layer. Repeat the process with the remaining wrappers and filling.
See Meryl’s instructions to make the pasta from scratch.
Sauce Instructions:
Halve or quarter the fresh tomatoes, depending on their size. In a medium bowl, season them generously with kosher salt. Allow to marinate for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, so they release some of their juices and concentrate in flavor. Pour off the excess liquid.
In a Dutch oven or large sauté pan, warm 4 tablespoons of the butter or ¼ cup of the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until sizzling and fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add the salted tomatoes to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until jammy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato purée, basil, and a big pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes more. Discard the basil and season to taste with salt and pepper.
The cooled sauce can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
Serving Instructions:
Bring a large pot of water to a gentle boil, then season it generously with salt. Carefully drop the ravioli into the boiling water, shaking off any flour as you do so. Stir for a moment, to prevent sticking, then cook until tender or to your liking, about 3 minutes—meanwhile, warm the sauce over medium heat.
With a spider sieve or slotted spoon, transfer the ravioli directly to the sauce (or, if you need to drain them, reserve about a cup of pasta cooking water first, then immediately tip them from the colander into the sauce). Stir gently until the pasta is well coated for 1 to 2 minutes, loosening with cooking water as needed.
Divide the ravioli among plates and serve, topped with fresh basil and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if you’d like.
Thank you so much, Samantha, for the kind words and beautiful illustrations!!! It was an honor working with you and I can't wait to keep reading!